After years of ignoring magazine titles like “6 must haves in your closet”, “Clothing pieces every woman needs” or “Clothes you can’t live without” the time has come where I need a pencil skirt because a mini-skirt isn’t the appropriate clothing-piece for office. So, that was the ideal excuse to unwrap the sewing machine and spend the weekend with threads and fabric!
What you need to sew your pencil skirt:
Take your hip width (cm) and divide it into two. Now you’ll have your total width for your two skirt pattern parts. After drawing your width onto your tailoring paper, you can add your desired length. Then, you calculate the width for the front part of your skirt ((Hip/2) +1)) and mark the length onto your total width. Thereafter you draw your hip level and your waist-line onto your pattern.
Next we calculate your total amount of fabric for darts with the formula: ((hip/2)-(waist/2))/2.
For example your amount of fabric for darts is 12 cm then you divide it into two and you’ll get 6 cm per skirt-pattern-piece. To get a better fit you’ll subtract 3,5 cm from each pattern-piece in the middle, then you’ll receive 2,5 cm to distribute to other darts. At your skirt-back-pattern-piece you’ll subtract 1 cm to get a better fit at your back.
Fort the front dart you’ll need your space between your breast (SBYB) and divide it into two. For example, it is 20 cm, then you would place your darts 10 cm from the right-pattern-corner and because you’ll have 2,5 cm of fabric left you’ll draw a dart of 2,5 cm (1,25 cm per side).
Then you subtract 1,5 cm from your left and right upper side of your pattern (helps to get a better fit at the waist) and connect it with your French curve at the marked space at 3,5 cm. Pay attention to remove 1 cm at the back side.The skirt slit high is a question of taste. I took a high of 12 cm and 4 cm width. You should take a width of minimum 3 cm because you need to fold the slid for sewing.
What are your versions of the skirt? Can’t wait to see them! Just leave me a comment below :).